Tej: Ethiopia's Hopped Honey Spirit
For centuries, different cultures and ethnic groups have given the world the gift of their own unique libations. Italians have grappa. The Greeks have ouzo. Mexico has mezcal. Washingtonians have... Tej. What in the world is Tej? Though not indigenous to the District, Ethiopian Tej has become an integral part of the culture here.
Washington has become the largest community of Ethiopians outside of Ethiopia, and much has been made of their culinary contribution to the greater metro area. Less attention has been paid to this curious sip. Sure, you may have ventured to try some tasty brews from this Eastern African nation – such as Meta Beer, St. George or Harrar – but odds are you have yet to try Tej.
One of the reasons for the lack of general recognition of the spirit could be its dubious appearance (it's usually homemade, so bottles often come open and without a label). Another could be the fact that it's rarely even offered to customers who are not Ethiopian (admittedly, the flavor is very different from what the Western palate is accustomed to). But don't let those things deter you from experiencing this essential part of the DC culinary scene.
In composition, Tej is closest to a mead or a honey wine. However, the mostly-homemade spirit varies greatly in recipes and compositions. With subtle floral undertones of wheatgrass and hibiscus and a sweet finish that abounds with honey, butter and nuts, Tej is the perfect complement to a spicy curried yebeg wot or kitfo. The first time I tried it, I thought to myself that this is what bumble bees must be tasting – its full of vitality and color.
Tej is made with the leaves and twigs of the gesho plant, a bitter green that is similar in flavoring to hops. It has a very high alcohol content (watch out, it definitely sneaks up on you) and is best consumed with food. Prices per bottle run $15–$20 a bottle. If you’re looking to try it, check for spots with writing in Amheric on the sign, such as Zed’s in Georgetown or Adams Morgan’s Meskerem.